Hike America #1: Clingmans Dome & Andrews Bald (Tennessee)

Today, I’m really excited to launch my new BHAG (big hairy audacious goal), Hike America. I’ve always wanted to visit every state, but I’ve only made it to about half of them. What better way to see the country than to hike all across it. Over the next five years, I plan to hike a major trail in each of the 50 states, typically to the highest point in each one. This is hike #1 in my series of 50 hikes across the country. Be sure to check out the photo gallery at the end!


Kicking off my Hike America series is my recent trek to Clingmans Dome, the highest point in Tennessee at 6,643 feet. While visiting my family in Knoxville, my dad and I ventured about two hours away to highest point in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park on September 14, 2012. The Smokies offered the perfect backdrop to begin my journey, having grown up in East Tennessee.

The temperature in Knoxville was typical for September – muggy and in the 80’s. Once we reached the parking area at Clingmans, the car temperature gauge read a chilly 58 degrees. Several of the tourists from out of state were obviously not prepared for the cooler temperatures, as they were donned in summer shorts. Thankfully, I checked ahead, prepared to stay warm in my jeans and fleece.

Our Route – Clingmans Dome to Andrews Bald

The hike to Clingmans Dome is a short one – 0.5 miles from the parking area up a steep, paved trail. The elevation gain was a tad more difficult than I expected, as we paused to catch our breath a couple of times. At the summit, a winding ramp leads you to the top of the tower, or the “space ship.” It was built in the 1960’s, and the concrete structure looks like it could take off into orbit at any moment. At its pinnacle, the circular tower provides panoramic 360 degree views of surrounding mountains, and you are seemingly above the clouds, as white puffy sheets envelop then landscape and obstruct the view of Mt. LeConte and several other surrounding peaks. A few moments later, the sun reappears and uncovers the surrounding mountain ranges.

People come from far and wide to experience the 360 degree view of the Smokies. Several motorcyclists had made their way to the top, snapping photos with their phones and cameras. At the same time, a large family of Amish ventured to the summit. The women were dressed in plain dresses, the men and boys in slacks, button-downs, and suspenders. None of them had cameras to capture the moment. It was quite a cross section of our culture.

Speaking to one of the rangers stationed at the base of the tower, he said that this was considered a really clear day on Clingmans. Only eight days or so of September offer decent visibility, and thankfully, this was one of them.

Andrews Bald

Since the hike to Clingmans was fairly short, I made up for that by planning a 4-mile round trip hike to Andrews Bald, one of two grassy balds in the park located just inside of North Carolina. After heading down from the Clingmans Dome Tower, Dad and I took the Appalachian Trail until reaching the Forney Ridge Trail, making our way through the dense forest on this recently reconstructed trail. At one point, I stopped and listened. No birds, no cars, no talking. Silence. It was surreal. There are so few times that we encounter complete silence that it’s completely unfamiliar.

The trek descends several hundred feet, as Andrews Bald resides at 5,920 feet, making the climb back much more difficult. Along the way, we encountered several friendly people, eventually meeting a young college couple who was taking in the view of the bald. He shared his photos that he had taken at Clingmans Dome from a recent morning sunrise. (Another adventure I must pursue!) We also spoke with a man and his daughter who vacation in the Outer Banks, just to the south of where I live.

One of my favorite things about hiking is all the friendly people who take time to talk to you on the trail. There’s something special about it. There’s a certain connection you discover with those who are out there trekking through the wilderness.

As my dad and I made our two mile return to the car, our hearts were pounding as it was mostly uphill. This was more difficult than the hike up Clingmans, a nearly 2-mile uphill climb. The return trip always seems longer, but we eventually huffed and puffed our way back to the parking area.

Clingmans Dome was a superb kickoff to a grand adventure, the type of goal that usually think about but don’t ever get around to starting. Well, I’ve started, and it feels like I’m finally moving forward. One hike down, 49 to go!

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  • http://aparchedsoul.com/ Grayson Pope (A Parched Soul)

    DUDE! Come to NC and let’s hike Mount Mitchell!

    • http://www.trailreflections.com/ Chris Peek

      Absolutely! I’ll email you and work out a date. Have you ever done Mount Mitchell?

      • http://aparchedsoul.com/ Grayson Pope (A Parched Soul)

        No, I haven’t. I’ve done Grandfather Mtn. several times and really enjoyed it. I’ll send you an email to start looking at when we could do it. Take care!

  • http://www.lincolnparks.com Lincoln Parks

    Chris, this is absolutely awesome. So glad you started on your BHAG, because most people never do get them started. They just dream about them. Thanks for sharing this the pictures were awesome. I will definitely be following along. Thanks..

    • http://www.trailreflections.com/ Chris Peek

      Thanks Lincoln! I appreciate it. I usually like to have everything worked out ahead of time, so I’m going against my nature a bit and just setting sail. Thanks for following along!

  • http://www.postcollegesuccess.com Daniel Holterhaus

    Sounds like a good start Chris! Looking forward to your treks to the midwest over the next several years…

    • http://www.trailreflections.com/ Chris Peek

      Dan, I’m looking forward to connecting with you in the midwest!

  • http://masonthomas.posterous.com/ Thomas Mason

    What a great BHAG! I wish you much success in your endeavors, Chris! I’m looking forward to sharing in your journeys.

    • http://www.trailreflections.com/ Chris Peek

      Thanks Thomas! I appreciate the support. It should be a pretty cool journey.

  • jodyberkey

    Have you connected with Matt Jabs? He’s been looking for a hiking partner to do the whole AT.

    • http://www.trailreflections.com/ Chris Peek

      Jody, I don’t know Matt. Is he doing the whole thing all at once? Either way, that’s pretty cool.

      • jodyberkey

        He’s doing it all at once. I think he says he wants to do it in three months at a pretty brisk pace. He’s trying to get his wife, Betsy, on board, but she doesn’t want to do it. They both enjoy adventures and non-traditional lifestyles. I think you would like them.

        Here is his website:
        http://www.diynatural.com/about/

        He’s pretty active on Facebook, too:
        https://www.facebook.com/diyNatural?ref=ts

        • http://www.trailreflections.com/ Chris Peek

          Thanks for the connection. That’s an awesome idea for a trip. Unfortunately, I couldn’t take that much time away at once, which is why this adventure will work better for me at this point.

  • Gary Armour

    Your description and photos bring back memories from the early 1960’s when I spent three summers working in the western N.C. area. I was young and energetic; loved to hike and the challenge of these high-points in the Smokies and Blue Ridge bought me back to Clingman’s Dome and Mt. Mitchell several times. My life’s dream was to walk the A.T. from Georgia to Maine, but am afraid God had other plans in my life.

    Remember, when you get accustomed to walking those “low” trails of the East, come out West for some “high trail” hiking!

    • http://www.trailreflections.com/ Chris Peek

      Gary, thanks for sharing your past experiences. That’s something to think that you were hiking the same trails back 50 years ago. I’m looking forward to heading west and seeing if I’m up to the task of the “real” mountains.